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In the life of a Victorian
debutante, there were probably few
experiences more exciting than her
presentation to the Queen at Court.
This event marked the young woman's
entrance into Society, and allowed
her opportunities of which she had
previously been discounted.
The extensive rules and etiquette
surrounding this grand event were
mind-boggling. The young lady's
actual presentation took only a
moment, yet the preparation for her
brief appearance took several weeks.
Prior to her long-anticipated
"presentation day", she would endure
fittings for gowns, gathering of the
necessary accessories such as her
slippers, her fan, feathers,
jewelry, and more....but, equally as
important, was her deportment
training. This included learning to
walk gracefully with seemliness in
the presence of the Queen. She may
spend hours practicing to glide
across the room, using a tablecloth
as a simulated train in order to get
the feel for sweeping her dress
appropriately as she walked, without
getting tangled in yards of fabric.
The young debutante would also
practice kissing the Queen's hand,
but the curtsy was all-important!
Often a young lady attended classes
to learn to curtsy in the proper
manner. The curtsy she performed at
Court was not an ordinary curtsy.
This was a full court curtsy; one
where she would need to bend her
knee until it nearly touched the
floor--but not quite. Then she would
hold this position for an ample
amount of time while making a low
bow, and rise again, without losing
her balance, falling over, or
tripping on her gown and its
extensive train.
Finally, the young lady repeatedly
practiced her exit because she would
be required to back out of the room,
as it was considered the height of
impropriety and was against all
rules of etiquette to ever turn her
back on a royal personage.
According to The Habits of Good
Society, precedents set regarding
those who could be presented at
Court were as follows: "The wives
and daughters of the clergy, of
military and naval officers, of
physicians and barristers can be
presented. These are the
aristocratic professions, but the
wives and daughters of general
practitioners and of solicitors are
not entitled to a presentation. The
wives and daughters of merchants, or
of men in business (excepting
bankers), are not entitled to
presentation. Nevertheless, though
many ladies of this class were
refused presentation early in this
reign, it is certain that many have
since been presented. No divorcee,
nor lady married, after having lived
with her husband or with any one
else before her marriage, can be
received."
As stated above, ladies who had been
divorced were forbidden from being
presented at Court, but Queen
Victoria eventually felt that this
was a severe penalty in the event
that the woman was not to blame for
the divorce. Therefore, in 1889, the
Queen decreed that women who had
been previously debarred from Court
due to divorce were to thereafter be
allowed to apply for admission, and
that each case would be decided upon
based on its own merit.
Rigidly defined rules also
determined what a young lady could
and must wear, and these formal
regulations were rigorously
enforced. For presentations, one was
required to wear a gown with a
train, and a tulle headdress with a
veil that was long enough to float
over the train. The style of the
dress itself varied with the
Monarchy, no matter what the popular
fashion of the time was. For
example, during the reign of King
George III and Queen Charlotte, the
court dress style was hoop-skirted
and elaborate, even though fashion
styles at that time called for
simple dresses with high waists.
During the reign of King George IV,
hoop skirts were expelled and
court-dress style became a variation
of whatever was popular for formal
evening wear during the period.
For a young unmarried woman, white
was the prefer-red color for her
dress, though other soft colors were
acceptable, over a white background.
Married women to be presented were
allowed more color, however, most
chose soft shades and white. It was
not un-common for women to have
their wedding dress modified into a
court dress. Frequently, wedding
dresses were made with two different
bodices: one for the wedding; one
for court. Court dresses were
usually short-sleeved, and--unless a
doctor's certificate could be
presented stating that such a thing
was injurious to the young woman's
health--it was absolutely mandatory
that a court dress be low-cut.
The headdress, while always
including a veil, also required
feathers as part of it, although,
the number and size of the feathers
varied with the Monarchy. At the
time of Queen Charlotte, young
ladies wore one single towering
ostrich feather, but through the
years, the number of feathers
required increased.
Queen Victoria hated small feathers,
so orders were issued that Her
Majesty wanted to see the feathers
as the young lady approached. Later
in Queen Victoria's reign, as well
as in the court of Edward VII, the
mandated headdress was three
feathers arranged in a Prince of
Wales plume--that is, the center
feather was higher than the two on
each side of it--and it was worn
slightly on the left side of the
head. Tiaras were worn by married
women, and it was extremely
difficult to keep the feathers in
place, especially during the curtsy.
For young ladies and women to be
presented who were in mourning, it
was acceptable for their dresses and
veils to be black. No matter how
cold the weather was on this special
day, absolutely no cloaks, shawls,
capes, or wraps of any kind were
permitted to be worn. Those items
remained in the lady's carriage.
It was required for each girl to be
accompanied by her "sponsor"--an
older woman of suitable rank and
unimpeachable respectability
preferably, her mother. The excited
young ladies waited for hours in
their carriages outside St. James
Palace for their turn. Then they
waited for almost as long once they
entered the Palace, remaining in the
chilly St. James Gallery until
receiving their summons. Finally,
the ladies were ushered into the
Queen's presence in a
seemingly-endless line, in order of
precedence that is, lined up
according to the importance of their
father's titles. When she stepped
into the drawing room where the
Queen stood, the young lady handed
her card to Lord Chamberlain, who in
turn, announced her name while
another gentleman-in-waiting spread
out her train for her. Then, she set
forth across the great room toward a
group of royalties dressed in
richly-colored glittering gowns and
uniforms.
As she approached the Queen's
throne, the nervous young woman
prayed for her steps to be steady;
prayed that she would not trip or
otherwise disgrace herself; that she
would not fall as she curtsied; that
her feathers would stay in place and
finally, she found herself standing
before the Queen. The young lady
made her full curtsy until she was
nearly kneeling, bowed, and kissed
the Queen's hand. As she touched her
lips to the hand of the Queen, no
doubt the young woman was thinking
about the power represented by this
hand; the historic decrees it had
signed; the times it had been raised
in a gesture heeded around the
world.... Yet, if the young woman
was the daughter of a Duke, a
Marques, or an Earl, she did not
kiss the Queen's hand rather, the
Queen kissed the young lady's
forehead.
At this point, the young lady rose
and curtsied again in genuflection
to other royalties who were present,
finishing with one last brief curtsy
to the Queen. Then came the real
trick backing out of the room with a
ten-foot train! To do this, the
woman had to reach for her train,
and as gracefully as possible, drape
it over her arm to get it out of the
way. More often, however,
lords-in-waiting retrieved the train
for her and draped it over the young
woman's arm. Then, step-by-step, the
young lady backed out of the room.
Liveried servants were strategically
posted to help guide the debutantes,
but most seemed to have negotiated
their exit with little misfortune.
It took weeks of preparation for
the event, but this short ceremony
allowed the young lady
full-membership into fashionable
Society and the "Marriage Market",
along with its collective
privileges. She was now permitted to
attend court functions, balls and
parties of which she would have
otherwise not been included. As
well, she could now negotiate an
acceptable marriage in high society.
Formal presentation to the Queen was
an honor bestowed exclusively upon
young ladies at the highest level of
society, but anyone who had been
presented at Court was welcomed
anywhere!
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