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Many of our correspondents ask
us to define what is meant by the
terms "good society" and "bad
society." They say that they read in
the newspapers of the "good society"
in New York and Washington and
Newport, and that it is a record of
drunkenness, flirtation, bad manners
and gossip, backbiting, divorce, and
slander. They read that the
fashionable people at popular
resorts commit all sorts of
vulgarities, such as talking aloud
at the opera, and disturbing their
neighbors; that young men go to a
dinner, get drunk, and break
glasses; and one ingenuous young
girl remarks, "We do not call that
good society in Atlanta."
Such a letter might have been
written to that careful chronicler
of "good society" in the days of
Charles II., old Pepys of courtly
fame. The young maiden of
Hertfordshire, far from the Court,
might well have thought of Rochester
and such "gay sparks," and the
ladies who threw glasses of wine at
them, as not altogether well-bred,
nor entitled to admission into "good
society." We
cannot blame her.
It is the old story. Where, too, as
in our land, pleasure and luxury
rule a certain set who enjoy no
tradition of good manners, the
contradiction in terms is the more
apparent. Even the external forms of
respect to good manners are wanting.
No such overt vulgarity, for
instance, as talking aloud at the
opera will ever be endured in
London, because a powerful class of
really well-born
and well-bred people will hiss it
down, and insist on the quiet which
music, of all other things, demands.
That is what we mean by a tradition
of good manners.
In humbler society, we may say
as in the household of a Scotch
peasant, such as was the father of
Carlyle, the breaches of manners
which are often seen in fashionable
society would never occur. They
would appear perfectly impossible to
a person who had a really good heart
and a gentle nature. The manners of
a young man of fashion who keeps his
hat on when speaking to a lady, who
would smoke in her face, and would
appear indifferent to her comfort at
a supper-table, who would be
contradictory and neglectful--such
manners would have been impossible
to Thomas or John Carlyle, reared as
they were in the humblest poverty.
It was the "London swell" who dared
to be rude in their day as now.
But this impertinence and arrogance
of fashion should not prevent the
son of a Scotch peasant from
acquiring, or attempting to acquire,
the conventional habits and manners
of a gentleman. If he have already
the grace of high culture, he should
seek to add to it the knowledge of
social laws, which will render him
an agreeable person to be met in
society. He must learn how to write
a graceful note, and to answer his
invitations promptly; he must learn
the etiquette of dress and of
leaving cards; he must learn how to
eat his dinner gracefully, and, even
if he sees in good society men of
external polish guilty of a rudeness
which would have shocked the man who
in the Scotch Highlands fed and
milked the cows, he still must not
forget that society demands
something
which was not found in the
farm-yard.
Carlyle, himself the greatest
radical and democrat in the world,
found that life at Craigenputtock
would not do all for him, that he
must go to London and Edinburgh to
rub off his solitary neglect of
manners, and strive to be like other
people. On the other band, the Queen
of England has just refused to
receive the Duke of Marlborough
because he notoriously ill-treated
the best of wives, and had been, in
all his relations of life, what they
call in England a "cad." She has
even asked him to give back the Star
and Garter, the insignia once worn
by the great duke, which has never
fallen on shoulders so unworthy as
those of the late Marquis of
Blandford, now Duke of Marlborough.
For all this the world has great
reason to thank the Queen, for the
present duke has been always in
"good society," and such is the
reverence felt for rank and for
hereditary name in England that he
might have continued in the most
fashionable circles for all his bad
behavior, still being courted for
name and title, had not the highest
lady in the land rebuked him.
She has refused to receive the
friends of the Prince of Wales,
particularly some of his American
favorites, this good Queen, because
she esteems good manners and a
virtuous life as a part of good
society.
Now, those who are not "in society"
are apt to mistake all that is
excessive, all that is boorish, all
that is snobbish, all that is
aggressive, as being a part of that
society. In this they are wrong. No
one estimates the grandeur of the
ocean by the rubbish thrown up on
the shore. Fashionable society, good
society, the best society, is
composed of the very best people,
the most polished and accomplished,
religious, moral, and charitable.
The higher the civilization,
therefore, the better the society,
it being always borne in mind that
there will be found, here and there,
the objectionable outgrowths of a
false luxury and of an insincere
culture. No doubt, among the circles
of the highest nobility, while the
king and queen may be people of
simple and unpretending manners,
there may be some arrogant and
self-sufficient master of
ceremonies, some Malvolio whose
pomposity is in strange contrast to
the good-breeding of Olivia. It is
the lesser star which twinkles most.
The "School for Scandal" is a
lasting picture of the folly and
frivolity of a certain phase of
London society in the past, and it
repeats itself in every decade.
There is always a Mrs. Candour, a
Sir Benjamin Backbite, and a
scandalous college at Newport, in
New York, Milwaukee, Philadelphia,
Boston, Baltimore, Chicago,
Saratoga, Long Branch, wherever
society congregates. It is the
necessary imperfection, the seamy
side. Such is the reverse of the
pattern. Unfortunately, the right
side is not so easily described. The
colors of a beautiful bit of brocade
are, when seen as a whole, so
judiciously blended that they can
hardly be pronounced upon
individually: one only admires the
tout ensemble, and that
uncritically, perhaps.
That society is bad whose
members, however tenacious they be
of forms of etiquette and elaborate
ceremonials, have one code of
manners for those whom they deem
their equals, and another for those
whom they esteem to be of less
importance to them by reason of age,
pecuniary condition, or relative
social influence. Bad manners are
apt to prove the concomitant of a
mind and disposition that are none
too good, and the fashionable woman
who slights and wounds people
because they cannot minister to her
ambition, challenges a merciless
criticism of her own moral
shortcomings. A young girl who is
impertinent or careless in her
demeanor to her mother or her
mother's friends; who goes about
without a chaperon and talks slang;
who is careless in her bearing
towards young men, permitting them
to treat her as if she were one of
themselves; who accepts the
attention of a young man of bad
character or dissipated habits
because he happens to be rich; who
is loud in dress and rough in
manner--such a young girl is "bad
society," be she the daughter of an
earl or a butcher. There are many
such instances of audacity in the
so-called "good society" of America,
but such people do not spoil it;
they simply isolate themselves.
A young man is "bad society" who is
indifferent to those older than
himself, who neglects to acknowledge
invitations, who sits while a lady
stands, who goes to a ball and does
not speak to his host, who is
selfish, who is notoriously immoral
and careless of his good name, and
who throws discredit on his father
and mother by showing his
ill-breeding. No matter how rich,
how externally agreeable to those
whom he may wish to court, no matter
how much varnish of outward manner
such a man may possess, he is "bad
society."
A parvenue who assumes to keep other
people out of the society which she
has just conquered, whose thoughts
are wholly upon social success
(which means, with her, knowing
somebody who has heretofore refused
to know her), who is climbing, and
throwing backward looks of disdain
upon those who also climb--such a
woman, unfortunately too common in
America, is, when she happens to
have achieved a fashionable
position, one of the worst instances
of bad society. She may be very
prominent, powerful, and
influential. She may have money and
"entertain," and people desirous of
being amused may court her, and her
bad manners will be accepted by the
careless observer as one of the
concomitants of fashion. The reverse
is true. She is an interloper in the
circles of good society, and the old
fable of the ass in the lion's skin
fits her precisely. Many a duchess
in England is such an interloper;
her supercilious airs betray the
falsity of her politeness, but she
is obliged by the rules of the Court
at which she has been educated to
"behave like a lady;" she has to
counterfeit good-breeding; she
cannot, she dare not, behave as a
woman who has suddenly become rich
may sometimes, nay does, behave in
American society, and still be
received.
It will thus be seen, as has been
happily expressed, that "fashion has
many classes, and many rules of
probation and admission." A young
person ignorant of its laws should
not be deluded, however, by false
appearances. If a young girl comes
from the most secluded circles to
Saratoga, and sees some handsome,
well-dressed, conspicuous woman much
courted, lionized, as it were, and
observes in her what seems to be
insolent pretence, unkindness,
frivolity, and superciliousness, let
her inquire and wait before she
accepts this bit of brass for pure
gold. Emerson defines "sterling
fashion as funded talent." Its
objects may be frivolous or
objectless; but, in the long-run,
its purposes are neither frivolous
nor accidental. It is an effort for
good society; it is the bringing
together of admirable men and women
in a pleasant way. Good-breeding,
personal superiority, beauty,
genius, culture, are all very good
things. Every one delights in a
person of charming manners. Some
people will forgive very great
derelictions in a person who has
charming manners, but the truly good
society is the society of those who
have virtue and good manners both.
Some Englishman asked an
American, "What sort of a country is
America?" "It is a country where
everybody can tread on everybody's
toes," was the answer.
It is very bad society where any one
wishes to tread on his neighbor's
toes, and worse yet where there is a
disposition to feel aggrieved, or to
show that one feels aggrieved. There
are certain people new in society
who are always having their toes
trodden upon. They say: "Mrs. Brown
snubbed me; Mrs. Smith does not wish
to know me; Mrs. Thompson ought to
have invited me. I am as good as any
of them." This is very bad society.
No woman with self-respect will ever
say such things. If one meets with
rudeness, take no revenge, cast no
aspersions. Wit and tact,
accomplishments and social talents,
may have elevated some woman to a
higher popularity than another, but
no woman will gain that height by
complaining. Command of temper,
delicacy of feeling, and elegance of
manner--all these are demanded of
the persons who become leaders of
society, and would remain so. They
alone are "good society." Their
imitators may masquerade for a time,
and tread on toes, and fling scorn
and insult about them while in a
false and insecure supremacy; but
such pretenders to the throne are
soon unseated. There is a dreadful
Sedan and Strasburg awaiting them.
They distrust their own flatterers;
their "appanage" is not a solid one.
People who are looking on at society
from a distance must remember that
women of the world are not always
worldly women. They forget that
brilliancy in society may be
accompanied by the best heart and
the sternest principle. The best
people of the world are those who
know the world best. They recognize
the fact that this world should be
known and served and treated with as
much respect and sincerity as that
other world, which is to be our
reward for having conquered the one
in which we live now.
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