Restaurants, Inns, Taverns
New York in 1676 (it was still
the New Netherland settlement)
had six wine and four beer
taverns. One, a low stone
building near the present Pearl
Street and Coenties Slip, was
built in 1642 and was probably
the town's first tavern, paid
for by the West India Company
which paid the tab for visitors
to this port.
Inns and ordinaries were as
important to their own
communities as they were to
travelers, since they provided
shelter, refreshment, and
relaxation for churchgoers who
came many miles to attend the
marathon sermons and half-day
services of those times. Between
morning and afternoon sessions,
the men flocked to the local
ordinary, to warm their toes by
the fire in winter, to cool off
in summer from the sun-baked
meetinghouse. They drank beer,
ale, and cider, and often
something stronger.
The hotels and restaurants
sought Broadway for the very
reason that the churches shunned
it. The hotels that have at
various times occupied sites on
Broadway have been legion; with
the exception of the Astor
House, all the first-class
hotels have departed from below
Union Square. We may mention a
few of the older and best known.
Cafe Des Milles Colonnes
On July 9, 1842, Mr. Pinteaux, a
Frenchman, opened the Cafe des
Milles Colonnes at the corner of
Duane Street, which soon became
famous under the management of
F. Palmo. The accommodations and
appointments of this restaurant
were far superior to anything of
its kind yet seen in this
country. In February, 1844,
Palmo, who was an Italian and a
great lover of the music of his
native land, opened Palmo's
Opera House at 39 and 41
Chambers Street. He was
unsuccessful as an impresario,
and the theatre passed out of
his hands, and became Burton's
Theatre, where that amusing
comedian held forth for a number
of years.
Taylor's
Another famous restaurant much
frequented by the fashionable
ladies and gentlemen of the
thirties and forties was
Taylor's, situated on the west
side of Broadway at the
northwest corner of Franklin
Street, and figuring largely in
the romance of the day.
Ainslee's- between Duane
and Anthony Streets
Lovejoy's- at the corner
of Worth Street.
Guerin's
Probably the ancestor of all the
restaurants conducted in a
foreign style was Guerin's at
120, which from 1815 onwards for
several years sold
confectionery, chocolate,
pastry, liqueurs, etc.; this was
below the Park, near Maiden
Lane.
" Pfaff's" , A Popular Place
of Resort For Journalists and
Other Writers.
A popular place of resort for
journalists and other writers
for some years after 1858 was
"Charley" Pfaff 's, an
ill-ventilated and rather dingy
place situated in a cellar on
the east side of Broadway a few
doors above Bleecker Street. It
owed its vogue to Henry Clapp
and his associates on the
Saturday Press, a journal of
ephemeral existence. When the
paper suspended, there was
pasted on the door of the
publication rooms this notice:
"This paper is obliged to
discontinue publication for lack
of funds; by a curious
coincidence, the very reason for
which it was started." "Pfaff
's" was the resort of the
Bohemians of both sexes, but
there was good beer and there
must have been good cooking, as
we find that the place was
visited occasionally by people
who were somebodies in
literature; such men as Thomas
Bailey Aldrich, William Winter,
the dramatic scholar and critic,
William Dean Howells, Bayard
Taylor, Edmund Clarence Stedman,
and Walt Whitman, among others.
George Arnold, the poet, was a
visitor, and one night he
saddened the crowd by his story
of the suicide at the Stevens
House of a friend of his, a
young Englishman named Henry W.
Herbert, who wrote under the
pseudonym of "Frank Forrester."
Another friend of Arnold, who
introduced him to the coterie at
"Pfaff 's," was George Farrar
Brown, better known to the
reading public as "Artemus
Ward." They were a jolly crowd,
but journalism had fallen
somewhat from its high estate of
a generation before, when the
"Bread and Cheese Club" held
forth at Washington Hall.
Buck's Horn Tavern
At Twenty-second Street and
Broadway was situated the Buck's
Horn Tavern, which is spoken of
in 1816 as "an old and
well-known tavern." It was
ornamented with the head and
horns of a buck and was set back
short distance from the street
about ten feet higher than the
present grade. It was a favorite
road- house for those who drove
out upon the Bloomingdale Road
(Boston Post-road). Almost
opposite the tavern, the
Abingdon Road (Love Lane)
followed approximately the line
of the present Twenty-first
Street as far west as the
Fitzroy Road (Eighth Avenue).
The drivers of that day used to
come as far as the Buck's Horn,
then turn through the quiet and
shady Love Lane to Chelsea, and
thence by the river road through
Greenwich village back to the
city across the Lispenard
meadows. Three hotels still
stand in this section between
Union Square and Twenty-third
Street; these are the
Continental, at the northeast
corner of Twentieth Street; the
Bancroft, at the corner of
Twenty-first Street, and the
Bartholdi, at the southeast
corner of Twenty-third Street.
The most luxurious restaurants
in the city are Delmonico's at
Forty-fourth Street and Fifth
Avenue, and Sherry's almost
opposite. In the business
district the Cafe' Savarin, in
the Equitable Building is well
known.
The Claremont Restaurant
Following the old road toward
the river, we find that it is
the eastern boundary of
Riverside Park for some
distance. Abreast of One Hundred
and Twenty-third Street is the
restaurant called Claremont,
which commands a superb view of
the river. It was erected a
little over a century ago by Dr.
Post and long remained in his
family. Previous to 1812, it was
occupied by Lord Courtenay,
whose name appears in the list
of owners above as having
property below and contiguous to
One Hundred and Twenty-sixth
Street. Courtenay, who
afterwards became Earl of Devon,
came to this country, so it was
supposed, on account of
political or social troubles in
England. One writer describes
him as living as a recluse with
one man servant; another, as
being of a handsome and winning
personality and dispensing a
charming hospitality. However
that may be, when the second war
with England occurred, he went
back to England and did not
return to this country, his
plate and furniture being sold
at public auction. Another
tenant of the mansion for some
time was Joseph Bonaparte,
ex-king of Spain, who resided
here after the downfall of his
famous brother. For over fifty
years the mansion has been a
favorite road-house and
restaurant.
The Crossed Keys Tavern
In colonial days a stone house
and tavern, called the Crossed
Keys from its sign, stood on the
Kingsbridge Road at about One
Hundred and Sixty-fifth Street.
A notice of it appeared in the
Historical Magazine for October,
1881, which describes it as
still in use.
The Blue Bell Tavern
On the west side of the old
Kingsbridge Road, on the lane
leading to Fort Washington (One
Hundred and Eighty-first Street)
there stood in colonial days a
popular tavern known as the Blue
Bell. Cadwalader Colden, while
on a journey to New York in
October, 1753, stopped here and
later wrote to his wife: "It was
very well kept by a Dutchman
named Vandewater, and our food
and lodging were very
comfortable." Tradition says it
was the headquarters of General
Heath who was in charge of the
American defenses near
Kingsbridge before the
evacuation of the island by the
patriots in 1776. The Hessian
Colonel Rahl also occupied it
after the attack on Fort
Washington. One of his aides
fell in love with the pretty
daughter of the house and
promised to remain in America if
she would marry him. His
commanding officer, as well as
the girl's parents, favored the
match, and so they were married.
When the Hessians were captured
at Trenton, the young husband
refused to be exchanged, but
took the oath of allegiance to
the United States and, with his
wife, settled in East Jersey.
When the patriots were marching
into the city at the time of the
British evacuation, it is said
that Washington stood in front
of the house while the troops
marched past in review. At he
same time he gave into custody a
young British deserter who had
married a girl at the Blue Bell
the day before and who did not
want to accompany his comrades
on their departure from this
country. The tavern was still
standing in 1848, as a
contemporary writer makes note
of the fact; and it is further
shown by an advertisement in the
same year in which Stephen
Dolbeer notifies his friends and
the public that "he has opened
the Blue Bell tavern, at Fort
Washington."
Hyatt's Tavern
The tavern became immensely
popular on account of the
diversion of traffic from the
old bridge, but it did not pay,
and in consequence Jacob Dyckman
was obliged to make an
assignment. His property of
thirty acres was sold February
11, 1773, to Caleb Hyatt, who
continued to conduct the tavern
and who was succeeded by his son
Jacob, so that it became known
as Hyatt's Tavern, and is so
spoken of by General Heath in
his memoirs.
Ye Olde Chop House Tavern
These premises at 118 Cedar
Street have been in use for
restaurant purposes since 1800,
when they were first known as
Old Tom's. The First Olde Chop
House stood on Duane Street, but
then the proprietor moved to the
present address, and brought the
old name with him. The building
is evidently very old; ancient
rafters support its ceilings,
and the lower rooms are filled
with pews or benches and tables
such as characterize old London
chop houses, notably the
Cheshire Cheese. A narrow
staircase close to the front
door, and within, leads to two
rooms upstairs, also used for
serving meals, and there is a
grill room in the rear, where
prominent business men of the
city still meet for luncheon. At
this hour, ladies are excluded
from the grill, but are served
upstairs.
Old Shakespeare Tavern
This tavern was located on the
southwest corner of Fulton and
Nassau Streets. There De Witt
Clinton, later Governor of New
York, Talked over grandiose
plans for the Erie Canal. Fitz-Greene
Halleck came there, as did James
Fenimore Cooper, and a
sprinkling of poets. The
National Guard was organized at
the Old Shakespeare in 1824.
Fraunces Tavern
Built in 1719 by Colonel Van
Cortlandt, the mansion remained
a private residence until about
1757 when the occupants, as New
Yorkers have been doing ever
since, moved "uptown." The
sturdy old brick building became
an inn in 1782, when "Black Sam"
Fraunces came from the West
Indies to supervise its
operation. The proud hostelry at
the corner of Pearl and Broad
Streets was the scene of
exciting happenings during the
Revolution and the early years
of the new nation. A group of
businessmen met there on April
8, 1768, to organize the first
Chamber of Commerce. The
Fraunces was chosen by George
Washington for his Farewell
Dinner to his officers on
December 4, 1783.
The Province Arms Tavern
In 1754, Edward Willett, one of
the tavern keepers of the city,
was attracted by the commanding
position of the house and its
fine view of the Hudson and
rented it from
Lieutenant-Governor James De
Lancey, the inheritor from his
father Etienne, and opened it as
a tavern under the name of
Province Arms. The New York
Mercury of May 1, 1754, says:
"Edward Willet, who lately kept
the "Horse and Cart Inn" in this
city, is removed into the house
of the Honorable James De Lancey,
Esq., Lieutenant-Governor, at
the sign of the "Province Arms,"
in the Broadway, near Oswego
Market." The first event to
start it on its long and
brilliant career was a public
dinner given in 1755 to the new
governor, Sir Charles Hardy.
Hardy had been appointed
successor to Sir Danvers
Osborne, who had committed
suicide in the garden of John
Murray's house, a short distance
away on Broadway. The next
public dinner of importance was
that given in 1756, when the
lieutenant-governor of the
province, the governors and
students of the college, and
many prominent merchants and
others gathered here and marched
to the laying of the
corner-stone of King's College,
the ancestor of Columbia
University. At the conclusion of
the ceremony, they all returned
to the tavern where they
partook of "a very elegant
dinner."
Burns Coffee House
In May, 1763, Mr. George Burns,
another of the city's
innkeepers, moved from the
King's Head in Whitehall Street
to the Province Arms, and the
place became known as Burns's
Coffee House, though still
called the Province Arms and the
City Arms. A month after Burns
assumed control, a lottery was
drawn in the tavern for the
construction of a light-house on
Sandy Hook. Being so close to
the Mall in front of Trinity
churchyard, the inn became the
favorite resort of the English
officers, and of the fashion of
the city, sharing its honors,
however, with another inn, also
in a De Lancy house, the Queen's
Head at Broad and Great Queen
(Pearl) streets, better known as
Fraunce's Tavern, and still in
existence under the fostering
care of the Sons of the
Revolution. But it is as the
headquarters of the Sons of
Liberty that Burns's secures its
historic interest and from the
fact that notable meetings were
held there marking the progress
of revolutionary feeling.
The tavern was used for other
purposes than for indignation or
political meetings of the
inhabitants. It was the meeting
place of St. Andrew's and
similar societies and of the
governors of King's College, who
probably found it more
comfortable to transact business
in its genial atmosphere with a
bottle of good wine before them
than in the cold halls of
education. Musical concerts were
also given within the walls of
the tavern and in the extensive
grounds attached. In 1777, these
gardens saw a fatal duel between
Captain Toll Mache of the Royal
Navy and Captain Pennington of
the Cold stream Guards. The duel
was with swords; and a few days
after the hostile meeting,
Captain Toll Mache was buried in
Trinity churchyard. Burns
remained here as host until
1770, when he was succeeded by
Bolton, who came from the
Queen's Head (Fraunce's); later,
Hull assumed charge and had the
honor of entertaining John Adams
and his colleagues, who were on
their way to the first meeting
of the Continental Congress in
Philadelphia in 1775.
Tontine Coffee House
The Tontine at Wall and Water
Streets in New York City lasted
from 1792 to 1816, and its
assessed value of $7,000 was
topped only by the $13,000
mansion of Peter Stuyvesant.
Tontine was the name of a
seventeenth-century Neapolitan
banker who invented the idea of
an annuity shared among a number
of people; with the death of
each beneficiary his share went
to the survivors, the whole
going to the last two or three.
This New York Tontine was built
by merchants, traders, and
sailing masters who needed a
place to eat, drink, and discuss
business.
Bank Coffee House
This was located at No. 11 Pine
street between Nassau and
Broadway. New Yorkers who
lunched or dined at Bank's
Coffee House in the 1830's and
40's doted on turtle soup and
turtle steaks, a food fad that
had begun fifty years earlier
when groups of ladies and
gentlemen would make excursions
in pleasant weather to inns
along the East River, where they
held "turtle feasts, turkey
shoots and the like." Shad,
venison, and grouse were
plentiful, and a favorite of
that time and for many years to
come was pickled oysters.