The City of New York has been
regularly laid out and surveyed
for a distance of twelve miles
from the Battery. It has over
two hundred miles of paved
streets.
Most of the streets in the
old Dutch city are crooked and
narrow, but above that they are
broader, and better laid on; and
after passing Fulton street,
they become quite regular. Above
Fourteenth street, the city is
laid off in regular squares.
First street is located about a
mile and four fifths above the
Battery. From this the cross
streets extend to Two hundred
and twenty-eighth street.
The lengths of the blocks,
between First and One-hundred
and twenty-first streets, vary
from one hundred and eighty-one
to two hundred and eleven feet
eleven inches. Those between the
avenues (which run at right
angles to the streets), vary
from four hundred and five to
nine hundred and twenty feet.
The avenues are all one hundred
feet wide, excepting Lexington
and Madison, which are
seventy-five, and Fourth Avenue,
above Thirty-fourth street,
which is one hundred and forty
feet wide.
The numerical streets are all
sixty feet wide, excepting
Fourteenth, Twenty-third,
Thirty-fourth, Forty-second, and
eleven others, north of these,
which are one hundred feet wide.
There are twelve fine avenues at
parallel distances apart of
about eight hundred feet. They
begin about First or Fourth
street, and run to the end of
the island. Second and Eighth
are the longest, and Fifth and
Madison the most fashionable.
Broadway
The most
wonderful street in the world is
Broadway. It extends, as we have
said, the whole length of the
island. But its most attractive
features are between the Bowling
Green and Thirty-fourth
street--the chief part of these
being below Fourteenth street.
The street is about sixty feet
wide, and is thronged with
vehicles of every description.
Often times these vehicles crowd
the streets to such an extent
that they become "jammed," and
the police are forced to
interfere and compel the drivers
to take the routes assigned
them. The scene at such a time
is thrilling. A stranger feels
sure that the vehicles cannot be
extricated without loss of life
or limb to man or beast, and the
shouts and oaths of the drivers
fairly bewilder him. In a few
moments, however, he sees a
squad of policemen approach, and
plunge boldly into the throng of
vehicles. The shouts and oaths
of the drivers cease, the
vehicles move on, one at a time,
according to the orders of the
police, and soon the street is
clear again, to be blocked,
perhaps, in a similar manner, in
less than an hour. Twenty
thousand vehicles daily traverse
this great thoroughfare.
It is always a difficult matter
to cross Broadway in the busy
season. Ladies, old persons, and
children, find it impossible to
do so without the aid of the
police, whose duty it is to make
a way for them through the
crowds of vehicles. A bridge was
erected at the corner of
Broadway and Fulton street,
which is the most crowded part
of the city, for the purpose of
allowing pedestrians to cross
over the heads of the throng in
the street. It proved a failure,
however. Few persons used it,
except to see from it the
magnificent panorama of
Broadway, and the city
authorities have ordered it to
be taken down. It disfigures the
street very much, and its
removal will be hailed with
delight by the native
population.
Broadway properly begins at the
Bowling Green. From this point
it extends in a straight line to
Fourteenth street and Union
Square. Below Wall street, it is
mainly devoted to the "Express"
business, the headquarters and
branch offices of nearly all the
lines in the country centering
here. Opposite Wall street, on
the west side of Broadway, is
Trinity Church and its
grave-yard. From Wall street to
Ann street, Insurance Companies,
Real Estate Agents, Bankers and
Brokers predominate. At the
corner of Ann street, is the
magnificent "Herald Office,"
adjoining which is the "Park
Bank," one of the grandest
structures in the country.
Opposite these are the Astor
House and St. Paul's Church.
Passing the Astor House, the
visitor finds the Park,
containing the City Hall, on his
right. Across the Park are Park
Row and Printing House Square,
containing all the principal
newspaper offices of the city.
Old Tammany Hall once stood on
this Square, but the site is now
occupied by the "The Sun," and
"Brick Pomeroy's
Democrat"--Arcades Ambo.
Beyond the City Hall, at the
north-east corner of Chambers
street and Broadway, is
"Stewart's marble dry goods
palace," as it is called. This
is the wholesale warehouse of A.
T. Stewart &Co., and occupies
the entire block. The retail
department of this great firm,
is higher up town. Passing
along, one sees, in glancing up
and down the cross streets, long
rows of marble and brown stone
warehouses, stretching away for
many blocks on either hand, and
affording proof positive of the
immensity and success of the
business transacted in this
locality.
Opposite Pearl street is the New
York Hospital, standing back
amidst its noble old trees; the
yard is cut off from the street
by an iron railing. Crossing
Canal street, the widest and
most conspicuous we have yet
passed over, we see the handsome
establishment of Lord &Taylor.
rivals to Stewart, in the retail
dry goods trade; on the corner
of Grand street. The brown stone
building opposite, is Brooks'
clothing house, the largest and
finest in the country. Between
Broome and Spring streets, are
the marble and brown stone
buildings of the famous St.
Nicholas Hotel. On the block
above, and opposite, is
Tiffany's, too well known to
need a description. On the
corner of Prince street, is Ball
&Black's, a visit to which
palace is worth a trip to the
city. Diagonally opposite is the
Metropolitan Hotel, in the rear
of which is the theatre known as
Niblo's Garden. Above this we
pass the Olympic Theatre, the
great Dollar store, the Southern
Hotel, the New York Hotel, the
New York Theatre, and Goupil's
famous art gallery. On the
corner of Tenth street, is a
magnificent iron building,
painted white. This is Stewards
up town, or retail store. It is
always filled with ladies
"shopping," and the streets
around it are blocked with
carriages. Throngs of elegantly
dressed ladies pass in and out,
the whole scene being animated
and interesting. Above this is
Grace Church, one of the most
beautiful religious structures
in the city. On the corner of
Thirteenth street, is Wallack's
Theatre. At Fourteenth street,
we find a handsome square,
formerly a fashionable place of
residence, but now giving way to
business houses and hotels. This
is Union Square. Passing around
it, Broadway runs in a
north-westerly direction, and at
the intersection of the great
thoroughfare with Fifth Avenue,
at Twenty-third street, we see
the magnificent front of the
Fifth Avenue Hotel. On the block
beyond are the Albemarle and
Hoffman Houses, with the St.
James a little above. Opposite
are the Worth Monument and
Madison Square. Above this are
several minor hotels, and Wood's
Theatre. The street is but
little improved above
Thirty-fourth street.
Below Twenty-third street, and
especially below Union Square,
Broadway is built up
magnificently. Marble, brown
stone, and iron warehouses,
extend in long rows on each side
of the street. There are some
old shanties still standing on
the great thoroughfare, but they
are rapidly disappearing, and in
a few years will be entirely
gone. The view from any point
below Fourteenth street, ranges
from Union Square to the Bowling
Green, and is grand and
exhilarating beyond description.
The windows of the stores are
filled with the gayest and most
showy goods. Jewels, silks,
satins, laces, ribbons,
household goods, silver ware,
toys, paintings; in short, rare,
costly, and beautiful objects,
greet the gazer on every hand.
There are no railroad tracks on
Broadway below Fourteenth
street; the public travel is
done by means of omnibus
es, or stages, as they are
called. Several hundred of these
traverse the street from the
lower ferries as far up as
Twenty-third street, turning off
at various points into the side
streets and avenues. At night
the many colored lamps of these
vehicles add a striking and
picturesque feature to the
scene. They are filled with all
sorts of people.
The Broadway side walks are
always crowded, and this throng
of passers- by is, to our mind,
the most attractive feature of
the busy scene. Every class and
shade of nationality and
character is represented here.
America, Europe, Asia, Africa,
and even Oceanica, has each its
representatives here. High and
low, rich and poor, pass along
these side-walks, at a speed
peculiar to New York, and
positively bewildering to a
stranger. No one seems to think
of any person but himself, and
each one jostles his neighbor or
brushes by him with an
indifference amusing to behold.
Fine gentlemen in broad cloth,
ladies in silks and jewels, and
beggars in squalidness and rags,
are mingled here in true
Republican confusion. The bustle
and uproar are very great,
generally making it impossible
to converse in an ordinary tone.
From early morning till near
midnight this scene goes on.
A gentleman from the remote
interior, once put up at the St.
Nicholas Hotel. He came to the
City on urgent business, and
told a friend who was with him,
that he intended to start out
early the next morning. This
friend saw him, about noon the
next day, waiting at the door of
the St. Nicholas Hotel,
surveying the passing crowd with
an air of impatience.
"Have you finished your
business?" he asked.
"No," said the gentleman, "I
have not yet started out. I've
been waiting here for three
hours for this crowd to pass by,
and I see no signs of it doing
so."
The friend, pitying him, put him
in a stage, and started him off,
telling him that crowd usually
took twenty-four hours to pass
that point.
At night the scene changes. The
crowd of vehicles on the street
is not so dense, and the "foot
passengers" are somewhat thinned
put. The lower part of the city,
which is devoted exclusively to
business, is deserted. For
blocks the only persons to be
seen are the policemen on their
beats. Above Canal street,
however, all is life and bustle.
The street is brilliantly
lighted. The windows of the
stores and restaurants, and the
lamps of the theatres and
concert saloons, add greatly to
the general illumination, while
the long lines of the red,
green, and blue lights of the
stages, rising and falling with
the motion of the vehicles, add
a novelty and beauty to the
picture. Strains of music or
bursts of applause, float out on
the night air from the places of
amusement, not all of which are
reputable. The street is full of
all kinds of people, all of whom
seem to be in high spirits, for
Broadway is a sure cure for the
"blues." One feature mars the
scene. At every step, almost,
one passes women and girls, and
even mere children, seeking for
company, and soliciting passers
by with their looks and manner,
and sometimes by open words. The
police do not allow these women
to stop and converse with men on
the street, and when they find a
companion, they dart with him
down a side street. This goes on
until midnight. Then the street
gradually becomes deserted, and
for a few hours silence reigns
in Broadway.
The Bowery
Leaving
the City Hall, and passing
through Chatham street, one
suddenly emerges from the dark,
narrow lane, into a broad
square, with streets leading
from it to all parts of the
city. It is not overclean, and
has an air of sharpness and
repulsiveness that at once
attract attention. This is
Chatham Square, the great
promenade of that class
generally known as "the fancy."
At the upper end of the Square
is a broad, well paved, flashy
looking street, stretching away
to the northward, crowded with
street cars, vehicles of all
kinds, and pedestrians. This is
the Bowery. It begins at Chatham
Square, and extends as far as
the Cooper Institute on Eighth
street, where Third and Fourth
Avenues, the first on the right
hand, the other on the left,
continue the thoroughfare to the
Harlem river.
The Bowery first appears in the
history of New York under the
following circumstances. About
1642 or 1643, it was set apart
by the Dutch as the residence of
superannuated slaves, who,
having served the Government
faithfully from the earliest
period of the settlement of the
island, were at last allowed to
devote their labors to the
support of their dependent
families, and were granted
parcels of land embracing from
eight to twenty acres each. The
Dutch were influenced by other
motives than charity in this
matter. The district thus
granted was well out of the
limits of New Amsterdam, and
they were anxious to make this
negro settlement a sort of
breakwater against the attacks
of the Indians, who were
beginning to be troublesome. At
this time the Bowery was covered
with a dense forest. A year or
two later, farms were laid out
along its extent. These were
called "Boweries," from which
the present street derives its
name. Bowery No. I. was bought
by Governor Stuyvesant. His
house stood about where the
present St. Mark's (Episcopal)
Church is located. In 1660, or
near about that year, a road or
lane was laid off, through what
are now Chatham street, Chatham
Square, and the Bowery, to the
farm of Governor Stuyvesant,
beyond which there was no road.
To this was given the
distinctive name of the "Bowery
Lane." In 1783, the Bowery again
came into prominent notice. On
the 25th of November of that
year, the American army, under
General Washington, marched into
the Bowery early in the morning,
and remained until noon, when
the British troops evacuated the
city and its defences. This
done, the Americans marched down
the Bowery, through Chatham and
Pearl streets, to the Battery,
where they lowered the British
flag, which had been left flying
by the enemy, and hoisted the
"Stars and Stripes" of the new
Republic.
After the city began to extend
up the island, the Bowery, which
had been eminently respectable
in its earlier history, lost
caste. Decent people left it,
and the poorer and more
disreputable classes took
possession. Finally, it became
notorious. It was noted for its
roughs, its rowdy firemen, its
courtezans--in short, it was the
paradise of the worst elements
of New York. The march of trade
and improvement along the east
side of the city has effected a
partial reformation, but still
the Bowery is generally regarded
as one of the doubtful
localities of the city.
The street runs parallel with
Broadway, and is about a mile in
length. It is much wider than
the latter thoroughfare. It is
tolerably well built up; and is
improving in this respect every
year. In connection with Chatham
Square, it is the great route
from the lower part of the
island to the Harlem river on
the east side. It is devoted
principally to the cheap trade.
The Jews abound here. The
display of goods in the shops is
attractive, but flashy. Few
persons who have the means to
buy elsewhere, care to purchase
an article in the Bowery, as
those familiar with it know
there are but few reliable
dealers along the street.
Strangers from the country,
servant girls, and those who are
forced to put up with an
inferior article from the want
of a few dollars, and often a
few cents, to buy a better one,
trade here. As a general rule,
the goods sold are of an
inferior, and often worthless,
quality, and the prices asked
are high, though seemingly
cheap. Large fortunes are made
by the Bowery merchants, who,
with but few exceptions, are
adepts in the art of swindling
their customers.
Pawnbrokers' shops, "Cheap
Johns," second class hotels,
dance houses, fifth rate lodging
houses, low class theatres, and
concert saloons, abound in the
lower part of the street.
The Sunday law, which, seems to
be so rigidly enforced in other
parts of the city, is a dead
letter in the Bowery. Here on
Sunday, one may see shops of all
kinds--the vilest
especially--open for trade.
Cheap clothing-stores, etc.,
concert saloons, and the most
infamous dens of vice, are in
full blast. The street, and the
cars traversing it, are thronged
with the lower classes, in
search of what they call
enjoyment. At night all the
places of amusement are open,
and are crowded to excess.
Boughs, thieves, fallen women,
and even little children, throng
them. Indeed, it is sad to see
how many children are to be
found in these vile places. The
price of admission is low, and,
strange as it may sound, almost
any beggar can raise it. People
have no idea how much of the
charity they lavish on street
beggars goes in this direction.
The amusement afforded at these
places ranges from indelicate
hints and allusions to the
grossest indecency.
Another feature of the Bowery is
the immense beer-gardens with
which it abounds. We refer to
those of the better class, which
are patronized chiefly by the
German element of the city.
These are immense buildings,
fitted up in imitation of a
garden. Some are very handsomely
frescoed, and otherwise adorned.
They will accommodate from four
hundred to twelve hundred
guests. Germans carry their
families there to spend a day,
or an evening. Clubs, parties of
friends, and public societies,
often pay such visits to these
places. Some carry their own
provisions; others purchase them
from the proprietor. There is no
admittance fee: the entrance is
free. Beer and other liquids are
served out at a small cost.
Guests are coming and going all
the time. Sometimes as many as
five thousand people will visit
one of these places in the
course of an evening. The music
is a great attraction to the
Germans. It is exquisite in some
places, especially in the
Atlantic Garden, which is
situated in the Bowery, near
Canal street.
The profits are enormous; the
proprietors frequently realize
handsome fortunes in the course
of a few years. Were these
places all the Germans claim for
them; they would be
unobjectionable; but there is no
disguising the fact that they
encourage excess in drinking,
and offer every inducement for a
systematic violation of the
Sabbath.
Besides these, there are saloons
and gardens where none but the
abandoned are to be seen. These
will be noticed further on.
Respectable people avoid the
Bowery, as far as possible, at
night; but on Sunday night, few
but those absolutely compelled
to visit it, are to be seen
within its limits. Every species
of vice and crime is abroad at
this time, watching for its
victims. Those who do not wish
to fall into trouble should keep
out of the way.
The Avenues
The Avenues of New York commence
with First Avenue, which is the
second east of the Bowery. They
are numbered regularly to the
westward until Twelfth Avenue is
reached. This street forms the
western shore of the island in
the extreme upper part of New
York. East of First Avenue,
above Houston street, there are
five short avenues, called A, B,
C, D, E,--the first being the
most westerly. There are also
other shorter avenues in the
city, viz.: Lexington,
commencing at Fourteenth street,
lying between Third and Fourth
Avenues, and extending to
Sixty-sixth street; and Madison,
commencing at Twenty-third
street, lying between Fourth and
Fifth Avenues, and running to
Eighty-sixth street. Second and
Eighth are the longest. Third
Avenue is the main street of the
east side, above Eighth street
Eighth Avenue is the great
thoroughfare on the west side
Hudson street, of which Eighth
Avenue is a continuation is
rapidly becoming the West-side
Bowery. Fifth and Madison are
the most fashionable, and are
magnificently built up with
private residences, along almost
their entire length. The cross
streets connecting them, in the
upper part of the city, are also
handsomely laid off, and are
filled with long rows of fine
brown-stone and marble mansions.
The streets of New York are well
laid off, and are paved with an
excellent quality of stone. The
side-walks generally consist of
immense stone "flags." In the
lower part of the city, in the
poorer and business sections,
they are dirty, and always out
of order. In the upper part they
are clean, and are often kept so
by private contributions.
The avenues on the eastern and
western extremities of the city
are the abodes of poverty, want,
and often of vice, hemming in
the wealthy and cleanly sections
on both sides. Poverty and
wealth are close neighbors in
New York. Only a block and a
half back of the most sumptuous
parts of Broadway and Fifth
Avenue, want and suffering, vice
and crime, hold their court.
Fine ladies can look down from
their high casements upon the
squalid dens of their unhappy
sisters.