Nothing would prove more
interesting to a large class of
visitors to New York, than an
early morning stroll through
Washington, Gansevoort, Fulton,
or some other of the dozen
markets of the metropolis. The
public market is an ancient
institution in New York, and one
often alluded to by the writers
of the early period. According
to Valentine:
" A notable feature of the city
at the era now referred to
[about 1750,] was the number of
public markets in the city. One
was situated at the foot of
Broad st.;another at Coenties
Corner, now Coenties Slip (a
name derived from the familiar
and traditionary appellation of
an owner of property on the
'corner.' This was Mr. Conroet
Ten Eyck, one of the early
inhabitants, familiarly called
'Coentje.'
Another market was at the foot
of Wall st.; another at
Burgher's Path, or present Old
Slip; another, commonly known as
the Fly Market, a name derived
from the original name of its
locality—the Valley, Vly or
Fly—was at the foot of Maiden
Lane. In short, at the foot of
each street, along the East
River shore, was a market. In
the centre of the city, also,
were several market places.
Broad St., from Wall st. to
Exchange PI., was a public stand
for country wagons. A market was
also erected in the center of
Broadway, opposite the present
Liberty st.
The direction of markets, at
present, is in the hands of an
officer of the city, whose
authority and functions are
rather vague, called
Superintendent of Markets. The
stipulated spaces, or " stalls,"
in each market are rented, and
occupants must conform to
published regulations. New
buildings have been constructed
within a few years for
Washington and Fulton, as well
as several of the minor markets;
but in no case—and especially at
Washington and West Washington
markets—are these sufficient to
hold the business, which spreads
more or less over the adjacent
streets, yet comes to a certain
extent under the
Superintendent's supervision and
control. A regular system of
inspection of meats and
vegetables is maintained, and
many frauds and abuses have been
corrected that had grown up
unchecked 'until twenty years or
so ago; but this is carried on
by the Board of Health,
co-operating with the Market
Superintendent
Fulton Market is probably the
one best known by name outside
of the city. It is at the foot
of Fulton St., next to Fulton
Ferry, and occupies a whole
block. Twenty years ago, the
original old wooden shed still
covered what one might easily
believe were the original old
market men, and this spot was
one of those which no visitor
was permitted by his friends to
escape seeing. Under the shadowy
arcades of the interior, meats,
green vegetables, and
particularly fish, oysters and
clams, were so crowded together,
that it was a matter of
perpetual wonder that each
Stallman knew his own limits, or
how to get out and in his choked
doorway. Outside, the scene was
still more curious. The sidewalk
was encumbered by the stands of
trinket-sellers, fruit and
tobacco venders, and by
cupboard-like restaurants, that
leaned against the building, and
encroached more and more upon
the pathway; while all along the
curbing, built across the
gutters, were queer little
boxes, in which oysters, coffee
and cakes, and other simple
refreshments were cooked and
served to customers.
To insinuate oneself sideways
into one of these little huts,
and have set before you a bowl
of stewed oysters, just off the
stove, while the pardoned man
who served you stood with arms
akimbo and retailed the gossip
of the moment with hearty good
will and a genial admixture of
slang, was a Bohemian experience
which few old New Yorkers have
not indulged. At night, the
whole place was
ablaze with gas and those
flaring naphtha lamps which cast
such a weird, yellow light
(together with whiffs of
oil-smoke) wherever their rays
fall, and was crowded with
good-naturedly noisy, and
reasonably hungry theatre-goers,
getting a midnight luncheon
before crossing to Brooklyn.
Now these relics of an ancient
time have been swept away, and a
handsome new structure, of brick
and iron, well lighted and
cleanly, has- replaced the
old-time market. Nevertheless,
one still gets oysters and clams
as good as, perhaps better than,
those sold anywhere else; but
they are eaten in elegant rooms,
and are unseasoned by the rude
and romantic surroundings that
lent gusto to the stews and
fries on the curbstone, Lang
syne. Fulton Market remains the
principal place for the fish
trade, which is carried on in a
building on the water front,
opposite, where the smacks land
their cargoes, and which is
properly distinguished as Fulton
Fish Market.
Within the market itself are
several prominent fish dealers,
most prominent of whom is Eugene
Black-ford, one of the Fish
Commissioners of the State, and
a scientific student of the
creatures lie handles. At his
stalls are displayed, early in
April of each year, exhibits of
living fish and sea-life of all
sorts, and' others preserved in
ice, which form one of the
regular events of the season,
and overhead is maintained a
laboratory for the study of
practical ichthyology and its
concomitants, which has done
good service, not only to
science, but to the practical
efforts that are being made by
the government to preserve
against waste and extermination
the resources of these waters in
shellfish and food-fishes.
Visitors interested in the
subject are always welcome at
Mr. Blackford's.
Washington Market
Washington Market is far more
interesting nowadays than any
other in the city. Though the
building itself covers only a
block (on West St., between
Fulton and Vesey), the business
long ago overspread these
bounds, and now, with more or
less distinctness, occupies all
the neighboring squares. Vesey,
Barclay and Fulton sts., in
particular, are protected for
several blocks by wooden
awnings, under which there runs,
in front of the stores, a
continuous line of booths, where
fruit, vegetables, groceries,
hardware, crockery, second-hand
clothing, boots, shoes, hats,
toys, and almost every
imaginable article of cheap
traffic is disposed of by men
and women vendors, whose voluble
rivalry can only be compared to
the monkey and parrot house at
Central Park, ten times
magnified. Washington St., and
the other immediate purlieus,
are like this or even worse in
noise and crowding, all the way
from Cortlandt St. to Park
Place, where the wholesale and
commission merchants in foreign
fruits display their tempting
cargoes, and the foul air of the
dirty streets is made redolent
of berries, apples, peaches,
oranges, and, at the holiday
season, of forests of spruce and
pine to be sold for Christmas
decoration. The market itself is
largely devoted to meat, sold
both at wholesale and retail. On
a Saturday night the scene is
most entertaining.
On the river side of West St.,
opposite the market proper,
there used to be a collection of
wooden shanties, arranged along
narrow streets, like a Cairene
bazar,in which an enormous
business in fresh meat, oysters
and country fruits by wholesale
was done. This was called West
Washington Market, and was very
picturesque. But it was
irregular and finally became
unmanageable, whereupon the city
cleared it all out, made regular
steamboat landings there, and
transferred it, under the same
name, to a space at the foot of
W. 12th st. " Here " says a
recent observer, " are the
termini of scores of inland
transportation lines and the
landings of hundreds of vessels
engaged in the foreign and
domestic fruit and produce
trade. The name may also be said
to apply to the streets in the
neighborhood, which are filled
with the stores and offices of
the produce and provision
commission merchants. In the
spring the. Bermuda Islands and
the extreme South send all their
early fruits and vegetables
there; then comes the berry
crop; that is followed by the
peach crop, and that by potatoes
and other late vegetables for
winter use. An idea of the
extent of this business may be
obtained from the fact that from
50,000 to 100,000 baskets of
peaches arrive at the market
daily during the season, whence
a large portion of them are
re-shipped to the
non-peach-growing regions north
and west.*
The Gansevoort Market Wagon
Stand
The Gansevoort Market Wagon
Stand is another outgrowth of
Washington Market. It is an
ancient custom that the " truck
" gardeners and farmers within
driving distance, but
particularly those who live on
Long Island, shall come to the
city every night (but more
especially on Mondays,
Wednesdays and Fridays) with
loads of fresh produce, which is
sold from the wagon, not only to
dealers but to individual
customers. These large and
peculiarly constructed wagons,
heaped high with green stuff
over which a canvas cover is
drawn, may be encountered on the
ferries evenings, and their
drivers try to reach the market
long before midnight. Having
secured their places, the horses
are unhitched and tied to the
feed-box, or sent to a stable,
and the driver stretches himself
on top of his load for a nap
until daybreak, when business
begins. The accumulation of
these wagons in the streets
about Washington Market, where
they formerly congregated, so
blocked the narrow streets,
already choked with traffic,
that the city arranged a special
stand for them, a few years ago,
on the site of old Fort
Gansevoort, at the foot of
Little West I2th st. The space
of a block is laid out in ten
streets, well lighted and paved,
with foot-walks against which
the wagons are backed up in long
parallel rows. Those who
remember the old French market
of Quebec will understand this
arrangement, but will not find
the solemn picturesqueness of
Quebec in its metropolitan
imitation. Five hundred wagons
may stand there, and as many
more along adjacent curbings. It
is opposite West Washington
Market; and the two together are
well worth a visit, but this
should be made in the early
morning, since here, as at other
markets, all the hurry of
business is over long before
noon, except on Saturday night.
The Sixth and Ninth Avenue lines
of elevated cars go near to
Washington Market (Park Place
station); and horse-cars to
Christopher or W. I4th st.
ferries reach the neighborhood
of Gansevoort and W. Washington
Market.
Catherine Market
Catherine Market is one of the
oldest in the city and half a
century ago was of far more
importance, and apparently much
more picturesque than at
present. That was the great
oyster, clam and fish market of
town; and abounded in small
hucksters. In Thomas DeVoe's "
Market Assistant," which is
really a history of the markets
of the city, many interesting
details and traditions of this
and the others may be found:
Essex and Jefferson markets are
chiefly known by the
police-courts and prisons which
occupy rooms in the same, or in
attached buildings. The latter
Tias a rather fine new building
of brick, with terra-cotta
trimmings, surmounted by the
lofty walls and clock-tower of
the adjoining prison, which is
close beside the 8th st. station
of the Sixth Av. El.
Center Market is a dilapidated
affair, distinguished as the
best place to buy flowers and
living house-plants, which in
spring make the dull old
building gay and sweet with
their colors and perfume. The
principal wholesale flower
market is the Clinton at the
foot of Canal St., N. R., where
the wagons of the dealers are
drawn up at daylight, and trade
goes on briskly for several
hours, in the midst of a
temporary verdure to which that
grim locality is otherwise
unaccustomed; but it is probable
that a flower-market will be
established for a few hours each
morning in the plaza of Union
sq. It is to be hoped that this
proposition may be carried out.