Nearly all the lower part of the City, except those portions of it which
appear to be finished, are in a transition state. A few years ago, Greenwich
street, from the Battery up to Liberty-street, was the residence of the old
aristocratic families. Now the street has been filled up, and the elegant old
mansions are occupied by immigrant foreigners, principally Dutch, almost every
house being a beer shop or boarding house. The lower part of Broadway, also the
former residence of the old aristocracy, is now almost exclusively devoted to
business, lofty and splendid stores occupying the sites of the ancient dwelling
houses. Dey-street, also one of the oldest in the City, and but a few years ago
occupied by the most respectable families, is entirely changed; the whole street
being devoted to business, and perhaps not half a dozen families living in it.
The
exclusives of Park-place have also fled uptown, and now stores, lawyer's
offices, and gaming rooms, fill up the street. Beekman-street, too, once the
clean, neat and quiet residence of wealthy Quakers, is a filthy, noisy, and
bustling street. The beautiful residence of ex-Mayor Bowne, is now a German
boarding house, and on the opposite side of the street, the house in which
ex-Mayor Woodhull, three years ago, lived in splendor, is strangely
metamorphosed; his elegant hall is now used as a common thorough-fare to the
next street, and to various workshops and offices; his splendid parlors, as the
offices of a society for reclaiming debased females; the second story as the
office of the Independent newspaper; the third by the remains of the
Anti-Gambling Society, and the manufacturers of jewelry. Liberty-street,
Barclay, Warren, and Chambers-streets, are all becoming business streets, and in
two or three years, the whole lower part of the City, for a mile above the
Battery, will contain nothing but elegant stores, banks, and offices.
Ann-street holds its own, and is still the Grub-street of New York, where all
sorts of books and newspapers are manufactured. Some little improvement,
however, is about to take place near Broadway, as two or three old houses, long
since rendered classic, are about to be torn down. One of these, No. 8 is an
old-fashioned two-story brick house, which, for the last twenty-five years, has
been a boarding-house, a low groggery, a gambling house, and last, a cheap
lodging-house, in which loafers of every description, who could raise 12 1/2
cents, could buy a place to lay his head. The first story was used as a drinking
shop, and the second, together with the attic, was occupied by a beautiful
English-woman, who presided over the sleepers and sleeping apartments.
There was one bed-room in the second story, which contained but one bed, and
might be procured, as a special favor, by early application; the rest of the
beds were in the garret, one-half of which was divided into three rooms, while
the other half remained open. Ordinary persons would not have used those rooms
for sleeping purposes, our English-woman contrived to stow away about forty men
every night! The beds were very narrow, and placed one above another, on the
steamboat berth plan; rough boards nailed together constituted the bedstead,
upon which was spread a straw mattress and a scanty supply of coarse and dirty
bed-clothes. There was no washstand, basin or water, nor any other bedroom
furniture, not even a chair; those who desired to bathe their hands or face in
the morning, went into the yard, where a tin basin, a small piece of brown soap
and a filthy towel, awaited their pleasure. In every case the lodging money must
be paid in advance, when the lodger was conducted to his bed, and was allowed
the use of a light long enough to "turn in," when, if he did not put out the
light, the mistress would take it away. If he complained of cold, he was told to
put his rags over him. If he complained that there were too many in a room, he
was told to go and sleep in the Park, where he could have a bed and plenty of
room for nothing. By 1 o'clock at night, the beds in this model lodging-house
were all occupied, and no matter how drunk the lodger may have been, or how
sleepy he might be, he was expected to turn out by 7 o'clock in the morning. At
the bottom of the staircase leading to the sleeping rooms, was a broad, high,
strong latticed door, which was kept locked, so that the lodgers could not leave
the house without knocking at this door, when the lady would appear, and as she
could see through the door, would allow the gentleman to pass if she was
satisfied that he was dressed in his rags, and was not about to take away more
than he brought.
The next house, now an old wooden shantee, has more interesting reminiscences of
a particular kind than any house in the city. Twenty-five years ago it was the
favorite resort of first-class gamblers. There was a billiard room in the rear
for the exclusive use of the professional gamblers. All heavy matches were
played upon those tables. Hiram, the Albany Pony, as he was called, once played
a match in this room for $2,000. It was supposed that he was the best player in
the world, and he was pitted against a Southern gambler named Miller; they were
to play a certain number of games, the winner of the greatest number of course
to win the match. "Mockason Jackson," a rich old business man, but a great lover
of sport, was the Poney's backer, and no one doubted but that he would win the
match, as he was constantly playing, and had the run and hang of the table. The
day arrived and the play commenced, Hiram leading off in fine style, but at last
he began to miss his most favorite shots. The betting became brisk, reaching at
least $25,000! It had rained during the day and the table was damp. Hiram made
no allowance for this, but played as usual, and of course frequently failed.
Miller, on the contrary, played to suit the table, and, contrary to all
expectation, won the match. Hiram afterward went to England with Jackson,
expecting to beat all the English players, but was sadly mistaken. For many
years after the closing of the billiard room, the front part of the house was
used as a gaming room in which both faro and roulette were played. Hundreds of
young men were ruined in these rooms, and some of the most remarkable forgeries,
embezzlements and suicides, which at the time of their commission, startled the
city, had their origin in this old house; but when it was in the height of its
glory, gaming was confined to very narrow limits. Now splendid gambling saloons
are in all the fashionable streets, and are easy of access as any other public
house, so that that the old Ann street den, has fallen into disrepute. Four or
five years ago it was the favorite resort for thieves, stuffers, droppers,
thimble-riggers, & c., who met there to play faro, poker and brag. It was then
known as the "Tapis Franc." A faro bank was opened every morning for the
"crowd," and as fast as they got broke they would sally forth into the streets
to make a raise, and when made, would return and "rush their money."
Among the anecdotes told of these thieves is the following: a gambler named
Macgan, a harmless, inoffensive sort of man, occasionally opened a faro bank for
them. One morning, before commencing operations, he took off his coat and hung
it against the wall, and soon after was deeply immersed in his game. A thief,
who had lost all his money, retired from the table, and deliberately took down
Mac's coat, and went to a pawnbroker's shop, and pledged it for $5 returned with
the money and began to play. He was successful, and soon quit $50 winner
redeemed the coat and placed it where he found it. Another broken thief then
took the coat, pledged it for the same sum, and then lost the money. When the
bank closed, the gambler missed his coat, and was told where he could find it,
the thief at the same time presenting him with the pawnbroker's ticket; but what
annoyed Mac more than all was, that the only money he had lost that day, was the
$50 the thief won who first stole his coat. If the walls of this old house could
speak, they could tell of more fun and frolic, of more crime, wretchedness and
despair, of more acts of villany, of more plans to ruin prosperous men and
virtuous women, than any other walls ever reared within the City. The "Old
Brewery," of the Five Points, is famed for its squalid misery and monstrous
vices, but the crimes of this little old house would sink those of the "Old
Brewery" into insignificance. Both may be razed from the face of the earth and
forgotten, but the evil deeds conceived, matured and perpetrated within them
will live forever.